Cafes To Contemplate
Independent cafes across Europe and beyond - a celebration.
May 14, 2012
Gusto, Sheffield
It's immediately apparent when you walk through the door of Gusto in its new home on Norfolk Row that the cafe has moved up a gear - or maybe several.
The old Gusto Italiano was always busy, but managed to maintain a laid-back vibe.
You could sink back on a leather sofa with a newspaper, cappuccino and amaretto biscuits and while a way a couple of hours.
But with evening opening for bistro meals and a dedicated lunch period, the pace at the new venue is brisk and business-like.
The easy chairs have gone, mainly due to reduced space. The unit, formerly Molly's cafe, is within a Georgian building, thelong, narrow shape of which poses obvious design problems.
Coffee is now taken at the front of the cafe on a couple of tables or perched Italian-style at a marble counter in the window. In the dining area, you are rubbing elbows with fellow customers.
The decor is more glamorous - powder blue walls, crystal chandeliers and an ornate gilt mirror. Fortunately, a few of the photos of Italy I loved so much from the old place remain.
I met my close friend Fiona here for lunch - a pre-Falklands send-off.
These events are a tradition from my days on The Sheffield Star, really an excuse for my friends and I to indulge in liquid and edible treats and pre-travel excitement.
Once, after a night of innocent-tasting cocktails at Henry's to toast a trip to St. Louis, my packing resembled the contents of a bag destined for the charity shop. So did my head.
My meal of choice before flying 18 hours over the Atlantic was one of my Gusto favourites - fennel and sausage casserole - a rich, tomato-based stew through which the fennel emerges gradually.
Fiona chose the ravioli - large pouches of freshly-made pasta, which happens to be one of Spooky's top choices.
We decided to push the boat out by following it with cake, as I spread a map of the 400+ islands that make up the Falklands over the table.
Polish waiter Michael - who to my amateur ear sounds as Italian as his colleagues - took us up to the glass counter to choose from half a dozen or so gateaux. He's a big part of Gusto's success - always cheerful and super-efficient.
My dark chocolate and walnut tart was rather solid and dry. It needed a dash of cream.
Our cappuccinos, however, were excellent. Gusto's new barista does the best coffee in Sheffield. But it is expensive.
Despite the cafe being full, we were able to eat and drink our fill and talk through my tour - research for poetry I'm writing on maritime and autobiographical themes - without feeling hurried.
And although not designed for lingering long, the coffee counter at the front can lead to some interesting conversations.
A customer near the door who overheard Spooky and I discussing our forthcoming visit to Romein
January, interrupted to tell us he'd lived in the capital.
He generously scribbled the names of bars and restaurants we should visit on a napkin, and, importantly, explained how to navigate our way around by public transport.
Gusto deserves the success it's enjoying. The team that run it are among the most hard working and professional in the city's food industry.
But I do miss those leather sofas - and slow afternoons dreaming of the Amalfi coast.
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March 29, 2012
Bewiched, Wellingborough, Northamptonshire
It's been cheering to see quality food outlets popping up in the market town of Wellingborough.
The authentic Mien Tay Vietnamese restaurant has received numerous plaudits.
And on my last visit a farmers market shop had opened in the town centre.
I'd already visited Bewiched on Church Street, and liked it so much I requested a second visit.
My mother lives in Wellingborough and introduced me to it on one of our shopping jaunts.
The cafe sits in a tastefully-restored historic building that dates from the 1500s and was once part of Wellingborough School.
Built from the town's distinctive amber and charcoal-coloured ironstone, it forms part of a cluster of old buildings around the medieval parish church and green.
Apparently it was used to store fire engine parts before motorisation in 1922.
One of Bewiched's distinguishing features is its upper storey, floor -to- ceiling plate glass windows.
Alternate panels are deep blue, which some may baulk at.
But as my practical mother pointed out, they shield you from the glare of the sun, and prevent you from feeling like you are in a fishbowl.
I'm impressed with the way local man and owner Matt Fountain has carried out renovations.
The interior is painted white throughout making it light and bright. Tudor buildings can be very gloomy.
And the coloured glass adds a modern touch.
What's more, the walls are decorated with work by local artists such as black and white photographs of the town.
Another wonderful feature of Bewiched is its chic decked area.
The weather was far too bitter to sit outside on my visit.
But on a sunny day you could lounge beneath its canvas umbrellas enjoying the tranquillity of the green.
And so to the food.
Bewiched uses locally sourced, sustainable and quality products.
Coffee is supplied by Italian company Illy.
The cafe proudly tells customers on its website that its coffee machine is a hand-made Florentine La Marzocco FB-80 - the Rolls Royce of coffee making contraptions.
And staff are trained to U.K. barista championship standard.
I can vouch for the decaf, which came in a tall mug, strong, smooth and full of flavour.
Tea isn't neglected either - loose leaf and ethical Suki herbal and fruit teas, served in infuser teapots.
For eats, I tried the Victoria Sponge - very moist with what tasted like home-made raspberry jam in the middle and dusted with icing sugar. Delicious.
My mother ordered an Eccles cake - something she hadn't had for years. It was from a packet, but in her word "superior".
Service is also impeccable. The staff have greeted us as soon as we've entered on both occasions, and brought our order to the table.
Bewiched is opposite the Tresham College and is very popular with staff and students at lunchtimes.
Freshly made savoury options available to take-away include Lincolnshire sausage in a hand-cut, fresh baked sandwich, prawn and salmon salad or soup of the day.
And another recommendation from mother - the local Brixworth pate.
Matt says he is "making Wellingborough proud".
He aims to make Kettering equally proud when he opens a second branch.
Watch this space.
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